| Plugging Holes in Trans Seperator plate |
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There is a 2-3 accumulator backpressure hole that, if made smaller
(which your's is) it will make the accumulator "stiffer", giving a
faster rate of pressure rise in the clutch. If you have a high RPM or
high torque engine (and yours qualifies as the latter), just the larger feed orifice won't give you a short enough clutch engagement time (as I found out with Joe's car). So we closed down this backpressure hole to get the pressure in the clutch to rise faster.
Unless you have an all out race, or like unbelivealbly firm shifts, you shouldn't have to close any more. On Joe's car, I eventually
blocked the accumulators, but it wasn't for durability. Joe just wanted to get rubber at all throttle positions. It's a little over the top, but he does make 600+ HP.
Disclaimer: Like any art form, this must be practiced to get it right. Unless you have huge confidence, don't do this on your seperator plate without practicing first.
First off you need to know how big your current hole is and how small
you want to make the new hole. For this example we'll say you have a hole that's .125" and you want to make it .080". (this is actually a real example for those of you that want even firmer 2-3 shifts).
You need to add around .100" more to the size of the hole you want to
make. In this example .080 + .100 is .180". So you drill your seperator plate out to .180".
Then you get a drill another .100" (this one is just roughly, not that important on actual size, you'll see). With this larger drill you, BY HAND or a SLOW variable speed drill NO high speed drills, you chamfer both sides of the hole at a 45 degree angle so that you actually have a point in the middle where the two chamfers meet. The
best way to describle this is to picture an upside down V with a regular V on top. Like this but rotated 90 degrees )(. In this example of )(, the seperator plate runs vertically through the middle of the V's. Got it?
Now you need a flat piece of steel, a body hammer (for doing body work) and some aluminum rod. We like to use .125" aluminum rod. You can buy this at places like Home Depot.
You place the seperator plate on the flat steel, cut a large piece of
rod, try to do a volume calculation to see how big the hole is and then cut off about 25-50% more rod than necessary, and then place
the rod into the chamfered hole.
Now use the body hammer to beat the aluminum into the hole. Beat it so it's flat on both sides. If it sticks up some, that's good.
If you think about the hole with the two chamfers, the plug cannot fall out if you beat it in good, can it?
Now, take a gasket scraper with a razor blade and cut off the extra
aluminum that's sticking up so the plate is now flat. Sand both sides, and you are ready to drill.
If you practice this a few times, it's actually pretty easy.
There are a few holes that I would have liked to have had you make
smaller in the trans article, but I was a little concerned about people beating their sperator plates and then creating cross leaks, so I didn't put it in.
Jerry
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