Installing a Remote Oil Filter

Many MN12 owners have found that the oil filter on these cars are dificult to change, especially on the 4.6L models. The solution to this problem is to install a remote oil filter kit which relocates the oil filter to somewhere else you choose. Another added benefit of this modification is the option to get a filter mount with additional inlet/outlet allowing you to easily add up to two sending units for temperature or pressure gauges. This is an easy modification to install and fairly inexpensive. I find that the best way to do this modification is to buy individual parts rather than a kit. A kit will give you a "universal" adapter which has a threaded center you need to install to fit your engine block. I find a better fit is to buy an adapter threaded for your block. Also, a kit will not give you a mount that allows you to add on senders if you choose. Lastly, a kit may include hoses that are either too short or have ends that do not allow for an easy installation or into the area you like. The parts needed are simple. There is a spin-on adapter which threads onto the engine block where the filter used to be. This adapter has an inlet and an outlet for the oil hoses. Next there is a filter mount. This is where the new filter threads onto and again, has an inlet and outlet for oil hoses. Lastly you will need 2 hoses to connect between the spin-on adapter and the filter mount as well as a new filter. I will also give instructions on how to add an optional engine oil cooler.

PARTS:
All parts listed are made by Perma-Cool. They have the best selection available and are of superior quality. Prices shown are quoted from Summit Racing at the time of this article, February 2002.

Spin-on Adapters:

Remote Filter Mounts:
You will also need bolts to attach the mount to your car.

Hose & Connections:

Filters:

Oil Cooler: Optional. Parts listed are made by B&M Racing. Coolersare stacked plate design.
Installation requires 2 extra barbs and hose clamps plus additional length of hose.

1) Apply the parking brake. Support the car with jack stands and remove the front driver's side tire. Pull back or remove the splash guard from the wheel well. Unscrew the underneath splash guard from in front of the wheel well. This will give you access to the area under the battery.

2) Remove the battery from your car. With a marker, draw lines where the edges of your battery tray meet the metal of the car. Remove the battery tray. Choose the exact location for your filter. You may want to locate it as close to the front of the car as possible since that is where there is an access hole to the filter from beneath the car. Loosely attach all barbs, hoses and senders to your remote mount and hold it in the place you have chosen to assure it's fitment. Avoid any location that requires mounting that will interfere with the battery installation. You can do this by referencing the lines you drew noting the battery tray location. For the mounts I've listed only the top of the bolts will access the engine compartment so this should not be an issue. If you choose to attach the mount beneath the battery be sure to locate the bolts in a valley of the corrogated metal so the bolt heads do not press against the battery tray. Use a marker to outline where mounting holes will need to be drilled. Remove the mount and drill the mounting holes.

3) With the engine cold, remove your oil filter and allow time to drain. You do not need to drain your oil pan to do this. Clean the area. Hand tighten 2 barbs to the spin-on adapter. It is a good idea to use teflon tape on the threads to assure a good seal. Apply fresh oil to the o-ring for the adapter. Install the o-ring and adapter onto the engine block. You will see that one of the barbs is most likely behind the other and is hard to get to with a wrench to tighten. Remove the front barb (this is why you only hand tightened it). With a wrench tighten up the rear barb. This will also help to tighten the adapter. Install the hose and clamp on the rear barb. IMPORTANT: Mark the hose by wrapping tape around the end which will go to the remote mount. Note if this hose is to attach to the inlet or outlet of the remote mount. Now re-install the front barb and tighten with the wrench. As with the first, attach the hose and clamp.

4) Attach all fittings to your remote mount, again with teflon tape: barbs and any senders or plugs you choose. Bolt the mount to your car through the holes you drilled. It is a good idea to paint around the holes you drilled to prevent any rusting. If you will be installing an oil cooler go to step 4A now. Attach the hoses and clamps to the mount referencing which goes where by the tape you attached to the end of one of the hoses. The outlet of the spin-on adapter should connect to the inlet of the remote mount. The outlet of the remote mount should connect to the inlet of the spin-on adapter. Use zip ties to hold the hoses in place and to each other so they do not move much and fray thin by rubbing on the car.

4A) Optional. If you will be installing an oil cooler connect two barbs to the cooler using teflon tape. Next mount the cooler. You can mount the cooler to the front of the radiator with mounting kit #80278 or in a location of your choice with the hardware supplied in the Perma-Cool kit #103. You will see cooler #70266 mounted in front of the remote filter and accessible to the front of the car through the fog light opening in the photos in step 5. This location allows maximum cooling. I am using this cooler for the transmission and not for the oil. Attach the hoses and clamps to the mount and cooler referencing which goes where by the tape you attached to the end of one of the hoses. Attach the outlet hose from the spin-on adapter to the inlet of the remote mount. Attach the hose from the outlet of the remote mount to one barb on the cooler. Lastly attach a hose from the other barb of the cooler to the inlet of the spin-on adapter. This path will first filter the oil and then cool it. If you are using an oil temperature gauge this will read the oil temp before the cooler. If you want to measure the temperature after the cooler, attach the hose from the outlet of the spin-on adapter to the cooler first, then to the inlet of the remote mount, then back to the spin-on adapter. Use zip ties to hold the hoses in place and to each other so they do not move much and fray thin by rubbing on the car.

4B) Optional. If you installed any senders to the mount run the wire for the gauge at this point. Attach an eye hook to the end of the wire making sure it is insulated. It is a good idea to run your wire through a protective loom to avoid damage to the wire. Wrap the wire or loom in electrical tape for several feet. Run the wire along a path that is safe from heat or fraying up to the firewall. If you will be running wire for multiple gauges it is a good idea to run them together and wrap them together. I am running 3 wires together, note the transmission wire close to the oil sender's wire. Attach the wire to the car with zip ties as needed. Run the wire(s) through the firewall and into the car. Connect to the appropriate gauge as per the gauges instructions.

5) Install the new filter. Add a quart of oil to make up for the drained oil and the extra capacity of the hoses. Install the battery tray and battery. Start the car and let it idle. Look for any leaks as you let it idle for a few minutes. Shut off the car. Install the splash guards and put on the tire. Lower the car and remove the parking brake. Check the oil level and top off as needed.

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