| Things to consider before AED install |
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- Replace the 16 AED supplied plenum cover screws (M6 X 1.0 X 25) with new stainless steel BUTTON-HEAD screws (M6 X 1.0 X 25). The stock ones will rust very quickly.
- Be sure to place the intercooler hose clamps FAR onto the intercooler fittings. It is difficult to do as it it very tight, but if you don't, the hoses will leak. EECDOC and I went through that one.
- Use green standard coolant in the engine and Texaco Dexcool
(orange/pink) coolant in the intercooler system. This way if
you should have a leak, you will know where it is coming from. Use a
50/50 mix of anti-freeze and DISTILLED WATER. You can top of the radiator will one bottle of Redline Water Wetter and the intercooler tank with one CAP FULL.
- In step #32. You will need to cut the right side alternator bolt
short or it will contact the water temperature sensor. I would
suggest replacing the coolant temperature sending unit (passemger side) and the coolant temperature sensor (driver side) while
installing the AED kit.
- Upgrade to the 70mm FRPP throttle body now as it will be VERY
difficult later. Just ask Rudy Hartmann.
- VERY IMPORTANT! Gap the sparkplugs at 0.035". If you don't, you WILL BLOW THE SPARK OUT UNDER BOOST. Trust me!
- If you have underdrive pulleys...lose them!
- Mount the intercooler heat exchanger and water pump before you
install the blower. This can be done before hand to save time later. Simply tape of the fittings to prevent debris from entering.
- Run your water pump wiring before hand (do not hook it up until you are ready).
- Install the 190 lph fuel pump before the installation of the AED kit to save more time. The larger fuel pump will NOT hurt anything. I had Ford install my fuel pump the day before.
- You can perform step #26 now. Do it, as it requires only tin snips (aveation snips).
- Step #29 may require the bolt under the water pump pulley to be
ground down a bit for clearance with the pulley. When you turn the water pump pulley you will know if it is rubbing.
- The fuel tank should be detached from passanger side first to allow access to tank. The lines are held into a plastic clamp. The clamp can be pryed off the tank. It is nessary to do this in order.
- The center support that attach to the black plastic vallance neads to have the rivit drilled out. The bracket needs to be turned 90 degrees where it allows the most room possiable betwen raditor and
bracket. The brackets need to be bent at less of a angle for the
intercooler. Experment first before mounting intercoler to them.
- Buy some small metal screws with bolt heads because the philip head units that come in the kit can not have enough torqe
applied to them to insure a snug fit.
- The 2 brass fittings that fit into the water pump the come straight out are hard to get hoses onto with out putting them in a kink. I recomend that you take one to a plumbing supply store and buy 2 with a 45 or 90 degree angle to ease install.
- Don't forget the spring lock coupling tools required to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. They are available at Pep
Boys. You need the RED and BLUE tools (color coded).
- Use the IAC muffler at the rear of the IAC location (new location). Simple cut a 4-1/2" long tube (IAC new hose supplied)
and install it onto the IAC valve fitting. Then attach the IAC muffler so the 90 degree elbow fits in the short tube. Then attach
the IAC hose (3/4") to the other end of the muffler and run it to the
air intake cleaner tube.
- This make sure you have all your metric tools sockets and wrenches. Last but not least make sure you have a friend to help.
- Use steel wool on the water tank to clean it up quickly.
- Label everything!
A-Train
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